September 15 - Malahide, Portmarnock, and Howth

We ran out of clean clothes a couple of days ago and are trying to get the most mileage out of the what we have left.  Today we opted for a relaxing no touristy day (on the beach where no one will care if we smell :-). 

Drove through the seaside villages of Malahide, Portmarnock, and Howth.   Walked along the beaches and were amazing at the level of tide change.  Enjoyed our daily mocha, Americano and scone.

Biggest (and ugliest) jellyfish I've ever seen!

I loved these signs - so happy-looking - "Path To Health"

Malahide

We found ourselves back at the Old Schoolhouse Bar for dinner.  Jim finally got the Irish lamb stew that he had been wanting :-)

September 14 - Skibbeeren to Dublin

Met 2 cyclists from France at breakfast this morning who had just started their 5 day journey yesterday in Cork.  Jim and I enjoyed our breakfast and visiting with Kay.  What a sweetheart!  She told us to come back again - next time with our grandchildren :-)

Kay & Jim

On our way to the Rock of Cashel. We stopped for a much-needed bathroom break in Fermoy at Annie's Cafe. We sprinted to the upstairs bathrooms, ordering a latte, Americano and scone on the way.  As I walked back to the table I heard pounding on the men's room door and heard Jim's voice on the other side. The handle had fallen off the door and he was locked inside.  I ran downstairs and told the waitress "my husband is locked in the men's room" to which she replied, " Do you want me to let him out? ". She was hilarious.  The chef used a kitchen knife to remove the latch and Jim was freed. 

Next stop Rock of Cashel. The tour guide was great and the castle (remains) were pretty amazing, but the hordes of tourists, tour busses and tourist shops were disappointing.

Rock of Cashel

At Rock of Cashel

About an hour down the road was Kilkenny Castle. Again, tour busses galore :-(   Not the kind of place we want to visit.

Kilkenny Castle

Kilkenny Castle

Back to Dublin - actually a suburb north of Dublin, Swords, tonight to stay with Jayne and David in a residential neighborhood full of town houses. We arrived around 7:30 to a house filled with little girls - there had been a birthday party.  Pretty tired and wrung out from a long day playing tourist and over 5 hours in the car.  Walked into town for a terrific dinner of salads (yes SALADS!) at the Old Schoolhouse Pub.  Walked home and crashed.

September 13 - Skibbereen - Taste of West Cork Festival

Jim enjoyed a full Irish breakfast again plus porridge.  My scambled eggs were especially rich and yellow - Kay explained that that the eggs were from her hens, which are free range.

Off to the farmers market. After checking out the stalls, we joined a free tour of the market. Our guide, Walter Ryan-Purcell, introduced us to most of the vendors who then explained their business and offered samples.  Walter is a Ryan from Limerick - his family is also near Borrisokane  so maybe he's another cousin!   

Jim and Walter Ryan-Purcell

 Walked back to the market for some coffee and to purchase some blackberry jams then checked out all the shops as well as an artists exhibition.  At lunch in the Super-Valu cafe Jim had an awesome panini and I enjoyed my daily scone and mocha.

We decided to explore the coast - a sign for "Baltimore" looked promising so we spent a few hours there on a secluded rocky beach and an old castle built in 1215.  Found tons of really buffed sea glass. The change in water level between low and high tide is tremendous in this town - easily 15 feet.

Arrived back at the B&B where Kay greeted us with more apple pie. We ate dinner in our room (wine plus fiber cereal plus milk plus brownie) for me and Murphy's beer plus fiber cereal plus nut bar for Jim.

September 12 - Dingle Peninsula to Skibbereen

After another lovely breakfast of Valerie's we headed for Gougane Barra National Forest, originally used as a site for a monastery in the 6th century.  Hiked for 2 hours - the mountains were beautiful and we could see small white dots (sheep or goats?) near the tops.  Much of the forest was destroyed in February 2014 when Storm Darwin moved through counties Kerry and Cork with 100+ mph winds.

Lots of blueberries!

Before leaving the area, we enjoyed our daily mocha, Americano plus scone.

Continued onto Skibberreen via Bantry (where we enjoyed the farmers market).  In Skibberreen, the tourist office provided a lot of great information for the Taste of West Cork festivities tomorrow as well as how to find our B&B.

Kay Ronan of Riverview Bb greeted us warmly into her farmhouse.  Totally charming and extremely gregarious, Kay showed us our room and brought us each a slice of delicious homemade apple pie topped with fresh whipped cream. The apples, as well as everything Kay grows, is cultivated organically and the milk from her cows are taken to the dairy where she gets her cream.

Apple pie upon our arrival!

Our room at Riverview B&B

Our host, Kay, an amazing person!

I had been looking forward to a nice warm shower after hiking.  However the shower yielded only a slow drizzle. Apparently (as Kay pointed out in the morning)  I had pulled the string for the power to the shower thereby turning it off.   I actually thought I was turning on the light!

Enjoyed a delicious dinner at An Christan Beag, although not the most peaceful - we were seated next to a partying  of 20 girls!  

September 11 - Exploring the Dingle Peninsula

Another delicious breakfast.   Met two Danes who were walking the Dingle Way, having their luggage taken to a new B&B every day. 

Headed down to Dingle.  After getting some info at the tourist center and seeing petrified stegosaurus poop, we strolled the town looking at the shops.

Started driving along the coast. After a mocha and scone for me and an Americana for Jim at the Stonehouse   We found the "Fan" sign signaling the start of a portion of the Dingle Way.  The path was lined with purple, red, and yellow wild flowers and tons of blackberries (Jim ate a least a pint).  We passed several sheep along the way.  The view of the dingle bay we're breathtaking and though the sun was warm, the cool breeze kept us comfortable.

Blackberries everywhere!

So many beautiful wildflowers

We decided to follow the very narrow road along the coast.   I avoided looking out the window!  After stopping to view the scenery at Slea Head, we encountered a traffic jam as a tour bus tried to round a sharp corner with a line of cars in the other lane.  So... we decided to return the (safer) way we came!

Enjoyed our late afternoon wine and guiness and some delicious breadstick-type snack called "salted twists" at the picnic table at Lurraga House B&B, planning the next day's activities.

Lurraga House B&B